Style Evolutions and Cool Girl Clothing Sources

Wednesday, March 21, 2018

Almost a year ago, I had a fashion breakdown here. Turns out I needed to give my personal style permission to be myself, but who or what was that? I set out to find out and I started in my closet. I spent some time purging sentimental articles that were holding me back. I purged other articles that I called "glue" pieces....you know, pieces that aren't really your style, and can only be worn with a handful of other disparate pieces which leads to the I-have-nothing-to-wear syndrome which then hastens more random purchases and attracts even more disparate things into your closet and further compounds your problems. Yeah, those glue pieces.

Glue pieces = exponential closet growth and personal style confusion.

I wanted my articles of clothing to work effortlessly with one another, but the reality of my closet was I had very specific uniforms for all of my compartmentalized roles. Writer, artist, art professional, wife, dog mom, day job, fashion blogger: There was a huge disconnect between them all. The most glaring example of disconnect was I felt like I'd rock and roll all weekend and then Clark Kent, my boring alter ego, would show up for work on Monday looking like Mr. Rogers. I was sick of leading a double life and the closet clutter, (the clutter! so much clutter! Quelle horreur!) so, yes, Last April, I embarked on finding a style that brings all these aspects of myself, our creative class lifestyle, and my life choices crashing together in a comfortable and presentable second skin.

Nothing good happens overnight, Rome wasn't built in a day after all, so I really took my time assessing myself and my closet goals. #amstillassessing Personal style is the combination of your experiences, your lifestyle, your personality, and a bit of your hopes and dreams. When you get dressed, it shouldn't feel like drag. It should feel like...I'm about to get a little metaphysical here, which is kind of out of character for me...but I honestly feel when you look at or pick up the right piece of clothing, it should vibrate at that same frequency you are. Your heart should beat a little faster and you should smile. If you feel anything else or dead inside, heave ho. Once I chucked all the superfluous clutter in my closet, I looked at what remained and what it told me. Here's what I learned:

I've always kind of known, deep down what my innate style was, graphic, dark, edgy, minimalist victorian/regency, cyber punk biker, architectural details femme fatale, high heel obsessed tom boy, washed up jedi, militant romantic, subversive prep, rock and roll gallerista. What I know I like: I like asymmetrical hems and layers. I like acres of rugged leather accessories. Patina and texture. Only a small handful of polish, maybe even just the nails on my fingers.What I know I want: I want to dry clean as little as possible. I want to iron as little as possible too. I want unfussy. I want things that dog hairs don't weave themselves into. 

My style  is slightly eccentric and hellbent on putting toes over the traditional tokens of femininity...there's a push and pull, and if one element is present, there is almost always an opposing force threatening to usurp it. Masculine-Feminine, Good-Evil, Antique-Modern, Can you relate? Something tells me I might be shouting into a giant void here. But if by chance, I've tapped a proverbial tuning fork and there is someone else out there, vibrating on my level, I just want you to know I've found a few retailers that I keep checking back with as I slowly add to my closet and carve out the personal style that can also accompany me to work, or where ever I go.

I've always adored the designs of Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester, Yohji Yamamoto, Vivienne Westwood,  Helmut Lang, and Rick Owens but there were never any affordable options that got even remotely close to my sartorial leanings, yearnings and salary earnings, until fairly recently. They are as follows:



ASOS White - ASOS's newish line of design forward clothing. Think drapey and architecurally cut pieces. I can't get enough of it, but you have to act fast, sizes sell out so quick on ASOS. Check out some of my latest favorites below. (also, size down. I find ASOS White runs big, unlike most other ASOS lines).



H&M Divided Gray - It's technically not called 'Divided Gray' on the website anymore, but I still see the design aesthetic I'm looking for mixed into the regular Divided line. i.e. biker jeans/leggings, biker jackets, asymetrical tops, dark and disturbing tie-dye patterns, drapey anorak hoodies, punk sweaters.... See below.


All Saints - They've changed up their line a bit, but it's less dark and drape-y than it was, but I still adore their skinny jeans above all other skinny jeans, and their jackets are what day dreams are made of.





Kit and Ace - Design-y professional clothing for athletes when they're away from the gym. The majority of the clothing is machine washable and iron-free! I own a 'technical cashmere' long sleeve t-shirt that is handsdown the warmest base layer I own. I also own a couple asymmetrical drape-y t-shirts by them. I love, love, love their grunge-y scarves. 

photo: Kit and Ace


Noctex - Louche, Drape-y, thumbhole-y, achingly cool designs with a limited color palette (blacks, grays, whites)...they also happen to be socially and environmentally responsible (which is something I'm becoming increasingly aware of). 

photo: Noctex

Shades of Silence - Small batch designs that have a witchy, 19th century appeal. Their accessories are the stuff of my nightmares, which interestingly enough also happens to be where I take my style cues. I'd love to try out their coats so I can perfect my Sirius Black asset rich/cash poor aristocracy look. 

photo: Shades of Silence

Lastly, a new place popped into my cone of attention. Simple Moderne They have a collection they call "boho punk" that I'm quite smitten with, but I'm nervous about their return policy, sizing, and being overseas....but I've been thinking about them non-stop for two weeks, so I may have to bite the bullet and try. 
photo: Simple Moderne


What about you? Do you have subversive leanings? Do you have some good and affordable sources for me to check out? Let me know in the comments below. 



Your Bosom Friend in Pittsburgh,


Make-up Review: Foundations for Dry, Sensitive, and Aging Skin

Wednesday, March 14, 2018

 
 close-up picture of my skin. photo credit: Joshua Franzos

Here's something that happens in your thirties, that youthful essence starts to loosen its stranglehold on you and suddenly those crazy late nights you used to be able to get away with as a fresh-faced teenager and twenty-something, well, it shows now. I used to be able to get away with wearing foundation only when I was hired as a model. But nearly fifteen years ago, I had a make-up epiphany while I sat in a beauty salon chair, hair freshly washed, black cape snug around my neck, stylist looming behind me. My dripping, wet hair was plastered against my sallow face. The salon lights created dark hollows in my eye sockets. My lips were colorless and pinched. In short, I looked like the ugliest ghoul, not-so-freshly returned from an earthen grave. For the next 45 minutes, I gaped in horror at my Ivan Albright-like visage in the mirror while my hair was trimmed. Not fun. I vowed to never again visit a hair salon without a full face of make-up. So, it started there but eventually as I blasted my way into my third decade, the make-up and skincare became an everyday thing and avoiding the ugly death omen in the mirror became a way of life.

I'm actually wearing Bobbi Brown foundation here. photo credit: Joshua Franzos

Segue to foundation. I don't love foundation, but I love the way I look with a good foundation, and loving the way you look isn't vanity, it's important. My goal with foundation has always been to look healthy and natural, never fake and overly made up. I also don't want to feel it on my skin. I have different tactics when it comes to everyday make-up vs. photoshoots, but I always have at least one stand-by foundation on hand. This also means I'm constantly on the prowl, looking for an age-defying, skin evening, time-stopper in a bottle. This means I've tried a lot of foundations and will continue to. 
Cue the Law & Order music.
In the fashion and beauty system, there's a special division of real-life beauty bloggers that aren't paid to review products. Here are my stories. Pong Pong.

Neutrogena Hydroboost foundation




I was attracted to this foundation because I've been hearing a lot of good things about Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid attracts water molecules deep into your skin, a very good thing when you have skin as dry and prone to eczema as mine. This was described as a hydrating tint and I expected minimal coverage. I was surprised that it gave me medium coverage. It was very moisturizing. There is a wand and sponge tip applicator which I think I liked...not sure how sanitary that is though. The look of this foundation was very dewy; which was something I'd never experienced before, but I tried it out for a few weeks. I ultimately decided this kind of dewy is not for me. It just looks shiny and greasy. What I disliked most about this foundation, was it came off all day long. (I guess I touch my face a lot). I had this make up all over my clothes and hands because it seemed like it would never fully "dry" and set. It slipped and slided all over my face and by the end of the work day, it was mostly gone. I threw it out well before it was empty.
Price: Nice, drug store prices are hard to beat! $9.99-$16.99
Overall Grade: Fail

Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-hour foundation



I am new to the amazonian clay hype- apparently amazonian clay self-adjusts to the needs of your skin whether you be oily or dry and everything in between. I picked this up because I was looking for a creamy foundation, with good coverage, that could be dotted on and applied with my MAC buffing brush - Side note: I think I most prefer how foundation looks on my face when buffed out with a brush, rather than using my fingers or a sponge. This foundation has medium coverage and a little bit goes a loooong way. Also, it stays put. But, I've noticed it tends to dry my face a tiny bit. I will probably keep this one around because it is a good bargain for everyday, but I don't think it will hold up for photoshoots.
Price: not a bad price, I've seen it retailed for roughly $37-$42
Overall Grade: Pass. (B)

IT Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC Cream with SPF50+



A friend of mine used this and I loved how her complexion looked with it, so I bought it myself. I didn't love this. Even though it is particularly marketed towards sensitive skin, SPF ingredients are often a culprit for me, they seem to irritate my eyes and my eyes end up watering all day long. Which is exactly what happened with this cc cream. Also, this formula lends a dewy look that is best described as a light to medium coverage; but it says full coverage, but my freckles were still very much on display. Out of the bottle and freshly applicated, it's very pretty. However, and the final nail in the coffin for me, it never quite "sets/dries" so it comes off, on my hands, on my clothes, on my husband, on my dogs, and by the end of the day, I look like hell.
Price: $36-$42
Overall Grade: Fail

Makeup Forever Invisible Cover Ultra HD Stick Foundation



My go-to foundation for when I'm doing photo shoots, (since 2015) want to look my absolute best, or have zero time because I'm running late. I love this creamy stick. I just swipe some on my forehead, nose, cheeks and chin, and buff and blend it out with a brush. The finish is the look of health, and luminous skin right before the dewy level. It covers freckles like a boss. The only complaint I have with this stick, I believe it clogs my pores and causes comodones, so I try to use it sparingly, and really deep clean my face afterwards.
Price: not cheap, but this will last me at least a year's worth of photoshoots, magical evenings, and running late days $43
Overall Grade: Pass (A-)

Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat Le Teint Radiance Awakening Foundation SPF 22




I find myself a little sensitive to this formula - which means cue the weeping eye syndrome of mine, I think this is due to the SPF being chemical, rather than a physical blocker. This is a lighter formula which looks very pretty on if you don't have lots of skin issues/blemishes.
Price: expensive, $58-$60
Overall Grade: Pass (C+)

Urban Decay All Nighter Liquid Foundation



It's true, this make-up will last all night. But, and it's a huuuuge but. It is very pigment dense and subsequently full coverage, BUT it is verrrrry drying. I will note, this could be a good thing for younger women with oily skin, but as is, this equals not at all flattering for thirty+ year olds with dry, aging skin. All the lines you didn't even know you had suddenly pop up to the cracked surface of your face. My skin looked like a cracked desert floor. I've been mixing this up with YSL to use it up, because, dude. This cost $40 and the YSL cost $60, so....I can't wait until they're both gone and out of my life.
Price: not cheap, $40ish, which makes it incredibly expensive for something I hate.
Overall Grade: Fail

Bobbi Brown Long Wear Even Finish Foundation SPF 15




I've been using this since 2013.This gell-y liquid formula was a favorite of mine. It had medium, buildable coverage. I applied it with my fingers and was happy with it for everyday use and for photo shoots. It has SPF too and I didn't cry! It stayed on all day. I really liked this foundation, but didn't like how hard it became to buy it. Sephora stopped carrying it, so I had to internet order it, and when you internet order foundation, you absolutely have to remember what color you are (remembering my foundation color and passwords are not my strong suit). I loved this foundation, but a Bobbi Brown rep confirmed that it's getting discontinued:( Bobbi Brown is toting a new foundation, Bobbi Brown Long Wear Weightless Foundation SPF15. If you blink, it basically looks and sounds like the exact same thing. I will try that one next and report back. 
Price: hated the price, but it's so good that I paid it over and over again, $50.
Overall Grade: Pass (A-), sad to see this one go.


Sephora 10 HR Wear Perfection Foundation



Sephora Collection 10 HR Wear Perfection Foundation was recommended by a favorite blogger of mine whose make up always looks flawless, and....I hated it. I could feel it sitting on my face and the finish was streaky and uneven. I eventually threw it out. I cannot recommend this product. 
Price: so nice! $20. I wish it were a better foundation.
Overall Grade: Fail



There you have it. The Makeup Forever Invisible Cover, Bobbi Brown Long Wear, and the Tarte Amazonian clay are my current top three foundations out of the eight I've tried so far. Please note, I have dry, super sensitive, and aging skin. Beauty products aren't cheap, so I highly recommend you find beauty bloggers with skin types and conditions similarly aligned with yours for best results. Don't just fall in love with a pretty face! 

Do you have any foundations you'd like me to test out? Do you have dry, sensitive, aging skin and like foundation that doesn't rub off, and know something I should definitely try? Hit me up in the comments below.


Your bosom friend in Pittsburgh,


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